beaded culture

The significance of beads has often been fixed to a particular region and with beads the cultural identity of the people is promoted. The coral beads embellishment used by the Benin people holds rich aesthetic appeal. Overtime, the Benin man has recognized the social, religious, economic and political values of beads. He has nevertheless had the opportunity of choosing from among options corals which seems to have been determined by certain considerations. These ornaments possess an extremely high aesthetic quality. This quality is particularly high when it is made into ornaments for the royalty.
The importance coral beads have held from an aesthetic standpoint has never been equaled by any other ornament in Benin. According to some people of Benin origin, coral beads are valued for:
their structure and colour which makes it adaptable to many beadworks
their ritual symbolism and association with olokun
the highly priced value
the rich red colour that evokes power

Coral beads can be attached to supports such as metals, sewn onto leather or fabrics or threaded and wired to make jewelry and other ornaments. Due to the rich symbolism as well as the ease with which they can be adapted for various purposes, coral beads are made into headdresses, bracelets, belts, rings, necklaces, shoes, gowns and even attached to bronze sculptures. Sometimes it is applied as an overlay for certain ceremonial objects. It is especially on such ritual occasions that the colour and brilliance of coral beads endow it with its maximum aesthetic value. It is used decoratively on individuals and the aesthetic consideration in Benin is not based on the material used for the work but it is derived from the functional needs, such as the need to express the supernatural or for a predetermined context in which it will have a particular function. The use to which the bead will be put determines the form which it will be made.
In ancient times, Coral beads were common among the royalty and those chosen by the Oba to wear it. It was prohibited to all persons that were not of a certain rank. They were unaffordable by ordinary citizens and even those wealthy enough to own some of the beads risked punishment by death. For this reason they usually kept them well hidden in a corner in the mud floor of their houses. In Pliny’s words, some gems were considered “beyond any price and even beyond human estimation”.
But today, coral bead purchase and collection is usually a passionate pursuit among the wealthy classes. The designs of these traditional styled beads are made to fit the taste of the rich. Many royal designs have been translated to stylish ornaments for those who can afford it (see figure 23). The possession and wearing of coral beads is so extravagant among the royalty that it is used to make every possible attire and ornaments to show of the wealth of the king.
Coral beads in Benin have been a visual language of symbolism which reminds the people of their thoughts and philosophy. Wearing coral beads is an expression of their idealized beauty and communication is passed from the physical to the spiritual. It is accepted to be concerned with potency, values and power. It holds a sacred place in traditional Benin philosophy. The power of ase that the Oba possesses when wearing the royal Coral beads affirms the belief in the intercession of the ancestors in the affairs of their descendants. The power of ase is the Oba’s ability to bless or curse when wearing the Royal Corals. The religious function of these beads is so vital that it has to be cleansed at the end of every rainy season in the ceremony known as Ugie Ivie in preparation for subsequent ceremonies in the Kingdom. Amos(1995) says “Ugie Ivie augments the power of the royal relics the core of the monarchy.” The beads are used to create objects representing spiritual values basic to the survival of the community. These objects play a major role in rituals ensuring continuity such as kingship, festivals, chieftaincy, etc. In ceremonies such as Ugie Erha Oba, the Oba and his chiefs wear their most elaborate beaded attires. The ehangbe-hia (chieftaincy endowments) of a chief comprises of beaded ornaments including: odigba (collar), eguen (anklets), udahae (forehead beads), ekpen obo eva (cross body beads), ivie awe (anklets) and ivie urhu (necklace)[see figure 26].
Many civil wars have occurred in Benin as a result of possessing the Royal Coral beads. These particular beads are hereditary and since Benin operates a hereditary kingship, only the one who possesses these beads can be crowned king. This is mostly because of the kings numerous wives who may have boys of the same or similar ages. One notable civil war was between Esigie and Arhuaran. Oba Ozolua their Father gave the royal beads to Arhuaran when he sensed a power struggle ahead. However, a civil war ensued at his death and Esigie cornered Arhuaran to capture him and get the beads but instead Arhuaran drowned himself and hung the beads on the bed of a bush.
Coral beads are important during ceremonies in Benin, for instance, the Irovbode ceremony is an important ceremony carried out every four years and is used to display the wealth of their families through the ornaments they wear. The hair of the girls is particularly decorated with coral beads which may be formed into a headdress combined with other beads. Benin artists continue the tradition of creating beautiful works with coral beads and these ornaments have retained their prestige within the community and outside. At the burial of an important man a string of ovate agate beads are tied around his wrist.
In Benin culture, an individual who wears true coral beads is believed to be affected by its mystic powers. Though gemstone therapists believe it has healing powers that is more associated with the circulatory system and is known to have helped cure many blood-related diseases. One who wears or possesses true coral beads according to the Binis enjoys good-fortune, is never possessed by evil-spirits, nightmares, storms or lightening. Its colour is known to change according to the physical well-being of the wearer. It fades before the wearer’s illness becomes noticeable and resumes its colour when the health is restored.